OutdoorMissouri.com

That's what you get for encouraging us! [img]http://www.outdoormissouri.com/ubb/images/graemlins/biggrin.gif[/img] [img]http://www.outdoormissouri.com/ubb/images/graemlins/biggrin.gif[/img]

Seriously, boards sound a whole lot more complicated than they are. One time out, you've pretty much got it down. After that, it's just adjusting and adapting.

Anytime you need help, just holler!

Bullitt...The board(s) I'm experimenting with are "Offshore-12"....They are big enough to troll deep diving crankbaits without sinking the board like some smaller boards do. I ordered them from Cabelas. I bought a pair, one starboard and one port but I'm only working with one right now until I see how it works. I've only had it in the water once but I attached a magnum Hellbender with a roostertail trailer and it didn't sink the board. If it can pull that rig, it can pull anything. lol
The reason I'm trying them is that I've heard and read that walleye's will spook off to the side when your boat goes over them. By moving at least one lure out to the side, I figured it just might be the ticket... dunno yet....
I also got my rod holders from Cabelas but they can be found at BPS and Wally World...
The trolling bite should get going pretty soon....(I hope)
[img]http://www.outdoormissouri.com/ubb/images/graemlins/cheers.gif[/img]

Bullitt, the majority of walleye guys these days are using either Off Shore or Mr. Walleye boards. They're really easy to use and pretty much trouble-free. Unlike BornBad's Side-Liners, though, they don't have a trip function--but their line clamps hold really well. Be aware, they do offer a good bit of resistance when you're hauling 'em in. If you fish with these types of boards, best to use fairly stout rods with some give in the tips. And you'll definitely need rod holders.

Line counter reels are helpful for figuring setback (distance from board to lure--determines how deep the lure will run) and repeating successful rigging, but they're certainly not a must-have. You can do just fine without 'em, esp. if you're fishing flats.

If you do decide to try the boards, feel free to PM me and maybe I can help shorten the learning curve.

To tell the truth, I don't use my boards much down here. They shine mainly for suspended basin fish and up on top of the flats. Most of my trolling is done on the breaks, with crankbaits just ticking bottom. Occasionally I'll run one board, say, up against a bluff or over the top of a feeding flat, but trying to manage two boards when you're fishing by yourself and holding a tiller is about impossible. Takes two people to do it right.

Sorry to be so long-winded--haven't been out in awhile! [img]http://www.outdoormissouri.com/ubb/images/graemlins/whinging.gif[/img]

This is good stuff. I've wondered about them, but didn't want to invest in a bunch of Yankee gear that I didn't know how to operate! That said, I am interested in catching more walleye this summer when the wife and I are idling around drinking beer in da 'toon. Cheap, lazy, bastage that I am. [img]http://www.outdoormissouri.com/ubb/images/graemlins/cheers.gif[/img] [img]http://www.outdoormissouri.com/ubb/images/graemlins/smokin.gif[/img]

Thanks all that have replied. 'will work with the string selections a lil more.

BornBad, sounds like you're on the right track with the release. If you're not able to get the tension where you want it, then the only other option is to adjust the line.

If you're running braid, you might try looping the line once around the board's release pad. Braids are generally coated, which makes them slick, and they're also thin. A single loop will increase the holding surface, and also up the grip tension a bit. Two loops is too much. Respooling with a heavier lb. test might help also.

A better choice, if you're using braid, is to switch to mono. That's what the release is designed to work with. If you're already using mono, going to a heavier lb. test with the same tension setting may increase the trip force, or going to a lighter lb. test with the same tension setting could decrease the trip force.

In general, stay away from "lubed" or "slick" lines like Yo-Zuri Hybrid or IronSilk. You need consistent gripping to make these boards do what they're supposed to do.

Note that trolling speed and lure action may also affect trip tension somewhat... once you find a workable combination you might want to tighten up slightly for higher speeds or for the more aggressive deep divers.

Sorry, I'm about out of ideas. I know it sounds like an endless spiral of trial and error, but eventually you'll find an approach that works the way you want it to! [img]http://www.outdoormissouri.com/ubb/images/graemlins/biggrin.gif[/img]

what got me interest in them things was after I watched this show with some ol' boys running troll up the Cumberland and catching stripers. They were running planer boards, but I missed the part of the show on how they was going about rigging em up. I aint into species specific troll right yet - just trying to get it set up for optimal use across the board.

I hope this help ya BornBad, back when I live in Michigan,this is what we use on the great lakes. look upon Cabela's web site for cannon releases,there easy to hook up,and work good on bass and walleye. I ran Hot-Tot lures,can be found also at Cabela's, they dive to about five to eight foot, depends how much line you have out..speed ? ran between 2.5 and 3.5 depends on current. hope it help, its been a while now since I been on the lakes. [img]http://www.outdoormissouri.com/ubb/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img]

Thanks Powerdive for steping in here. What I got is a "Side-Liner" from company called Wille. A wedged shaped plastic about 10" long, half filed with weighted pellets, with an L shaped rod that the line clamp is on then out to a swivel the line runs through out to the bait. The instructions it came with left a lot to be desired. I replaced the factory line clamp with a canon clamp (works a lot better than what was on it). I must have at least $50 in the thing so far. The further out I let it from the boat, the stronger the resistance and the thing snaps out the line.. If I tighten the clamp to much, the few (small) fish I have caught with it do not snap out the line making it a real pain in the backside bringing them in. I ponder if the med/heavy action poles are strong enough, if I am going to fast or to slow (high speed troll motor or slow speed B motor), how long should the distance from the planer to the bait be and if this is somptin for only BIG fish that I should be using bigger baits on.

BornBad, what brand do you have? Is this a planer board (runs on top, out to the side) like an Offshore or Mr. Walleye? Or is it a diving planer (angles down or down/out, trips on the strike) like a Dipsy Diver, a Fish Seeker or a Jet Diver? That's kinda more what it sounds like. Will be glad to help if I can... if you can tell me what you're trying to do with it, maybe we can getcha dialed in.

Ya, that's the kind I got - they stay on the line but act like a slip bobber once they are triggered. The one I bought from BP came with some cheezy line clamps that I could not figure out how to attach, so I bought one for a downrigger and replaced the one that came with the board.

BornBad, I'm no expert on planer boards but have just started messing with them this spring. The kind I have are not supposed to come loose on a strike. You just reel in until the board is within reach, then detach the board and continue fighting the fish. Obviously it's much better to have 2 guys fishing. That way when the board comes within reach, guy number 2 can detach board and the guy with the rod never has to put the rod down or put it in a holder or ?? There is another method where the board(s) are attached to a heavy line from a mast. With that method you would want the board to come loose after the strike. I do not know much about that deal....
As for trolling line, most guys I know use 10 pound test mono for crankbaits. A few are experimenting with Fireline.
Let's see if we can get ole Powerdive in on this post. He's the most experienced walleye troller I know.... which would include knowledge of planer boards.... Powerdive ??

I have fooled with planer boards, never got them to work that well. Finding that medium on tightening the trap thingy to where it holds the line, but is loose enough to snap on a strike is kinda a problem for me. Those who use the boards, could ya step in here and throw out some advise on the best way to work them for general application. String size, troll speed, that kinda stuff.