High Vertical Tear

[Showme]

deer_slayer said:

...I was about 5 yards from the paper...

Is that really far enough to paper test? It was a while ago that I messed with bows on a daily basis...but we never paper tuned a bow that close...there is going to be porpoising with any rest/arrow/release/spine/tip combination and the fletching/spine/tip is what stabilizes that in flight.



If the other suggestions don't make a difference, I would back it off to 10 yards and see what it looks like on paper. If it is worse, than you have a problem. If it is better, then I would say it is stabilizing between 5 and 10 yards.



dab

[deer_slayer]

According to Easton's chart, the shaft size is correct. I'm shooting 29.5" ST Axis 340 at 69lbs with 100gr tips.

[fishin]

What archery shop are you using?

[Keith@AimLow]

dabs,

5 yds is about right. After 15 feet the fletchings alone will start stabalizing the arrow. I was just shooting my bow through paper a few weeks ago because I was helping someone tune in their bow and decided to make sure mine was still tuned. At 5 yds I am shooting perfect bullet holes.

[Warmouth]

I paper tune from 4-5 FEET out to 5yds and sometimes 10yds, if I'm having some real issues. Really though, if you're getting good flight right out of the rest, you're good.

The arrow will ocillate in flight, but not enough to screw up the read on a paper tuning shot. Once the arrow is off of the string, it should be basically straight.

[PoisonSnake]

I paper tune at about 10 feet. As has been stated, the fletching will begin to stabilize the arrow at distances longer than 10 yards.

My thoughts are that you have a clearance issue. If that rest is dropping entirely out of the way and you are spined correctly, then you should be shooting a perfect bullet hole through paper. Anymore, I set the nocking point on my string maybe 1/8" high of the berger button hole at max. If I have a high or low tear, I just move the rest. With a dropaway rest, if you are close to centershot on that particular bow, you should be shooting bullet holes unless you are spined incorrectly. If you are not, then you aren't getting good clearance.

You can be like me and just throw the darn dropaway in the trash and go back to the WB (Hobiecat suggested this). I was papertuned in 3 shots just last week.

[Triton X2]

You guys are making it hard for me not to get a wb...I have a drop away, and it stayed tuned for about a year...this year it got all skrewed up and my vanes would hit on every shot....Next year, Im going to get a wb.

[Keith@AimLow]

I have been shooting the Muzzy ZE for 3 years and find it very easy to paper tune and it doesn't seem to get out of tune. I was skeptic when I 1st bought it but wouldn't trade it for anything now.

[PoisonSnake]

I have said this many times; the ZE is a good rest if it is you have a bow with a traditional cable guard. If it is that you have a new Mathews bow with the roller guard, then I don't care for it as much as you will have mount the turnbuckle to the yokestring. Even if you serve it in, eventually you will have some problems. Which, BTW, are the same problems folks have with other types of dropaway rests that also have to be tied to the cable. Eventually, if I buy another bow, I may get a Bowtech since it has a regular cable guard that the original ZE can be mounted to.

[hunting170]

The first thing I would try would be a bare shaft through paper, from about 6 feet. If you still have a tail-high tear I would have one of the guys at your shop put a different drop away rest on, and see if it will paper tune then. You might as well try to rule out the rest as being your problem before you start checking for timing issues.

[TobyfromMO]

PoisonSnake said:
Eventually, if I buy another bow, I may get a Bowtech since it has a regular cable guard that the original ZE can be mounted to.

PS, your reading my mind. I love my ZE and intend to keep using one but only with a traditional style cable slide. The Bowtech would unquestionably be my first choice but the thing that sucks about the Bowtechs is the lack travel with their cable slide, makes it difficult to mount the ZE without some of trickery. I heard Muzzy was working on a redesign to get more travel from the ?hook?, specifically for use on the Bowtechs but I have yet to see one.

[hunting170]

Muzzy has the Zero Effect Next Generation for this year. The 600PC is designed for compact bows, and parallel limb bows that have the shorter cable travel. Unfortunately, a supplier sent Muzzy some wrong parts for the PC. I have been waiting on one for my new Bowtech Tribute for a couple of weeks. Hopefully they will have them by next week. As badly as I want to get this bow set up, and start shooting it, I`m not putting anything but a Zero Effect on it.

[Big John]

NO!

[hunting170]

MOCraig, you should still be able to get a new bow/string to shoot a bullet hole. My feeling is that it is a rest problem.

[Robin@AimLow]

Don't go to a lighter point. You should be tuning at distances measured in feet, not yards. About 6 feet is right, and if you can't quite get rid of a tear, you should move just a bit further back. After initial tuning, move back some more. "Settling in" is a crock of crap with today's stings and cables, and even if stretch and/or creep was significant enough to affect tune, you still should be able to get a good tune right out of the box. You mentioned spring tension on your rest, but yet it is a drop away? Makes no sense...if it drops out of the way, wtf does it need a spring tension adjustment for?

I think it is clearance issues. You cannot eyeball the clearance on a drop away, because it is due to timing of the drop...doesn't matter how far down it drops if it doesn't get out of the way before the vanes come by it. I also think things are messed up more than you think if you are still getting a bad tear at that distance.