OutdoorMissouri.com

Might as well open this up since I already posed a question related to the subject: how many of you build your own arrows, with either wood or man-made shafts, what type of feathers or vanes do you prefer, etc. How long have you been at your craft, do you crest your shaft, just a general description of what you do in your arrow making....
I have been making my own arrows for several years. Until now it has been exclusively aluminum shafts for compound bows. It started with a need to replace shot-thru vanes while practicing a lot and getting better groups. After a while, I tried feathers and found that the shoot-thru problem went away but natural feathers didn't hold up well in damp hunting conditions. Then two years ago I had to take up the crossbow, and fletching bare bolts or refletching old ones presented a new challenge. Most crossbows have a large diameter string and regular nocks will not work, so they normally have either a flat back or half moon back type nock. Those do not fit in the nock receiver of a regular fletcher. The folks at Grayling sent me several blank receivers to play with, and I eventually came up with a receiver to register the shaft correctly for a three fletch bolt, and also to set the fletching further away from the nock to clear the scope/sight mount on the crossbow. Now I am becoming interested in trying my luck with some true traditional arrows with dipped and crested shafts, Black Widow style two color shield cut feathers
and glue on broadheads. Any tips about your experience with this type arrow would be greatly appreciated.

My oldest son got me started making my own arrows about 2 years ago. He's really into making arrows so when he got a new 6 arrow fletching tool he gave me his old Martin. I believe it's a J-8. All I've ever worked with is Port Orford Cedar. I've not gotten into cresting yet. The entire process is quite simple and just like most things. If you take your time you can turn out a very good arrow.

My son made me a dozen arrows on which he acciedently put 5 1/2', shield cut, high back feathers. They worked so very well and stabilized my 2-blade broadheads what seemed like almost instantly. I probably lost a few fps but I believe it's worth the trade off. They also makes the arrow easier to follow in flight. I've been using that feather ever since. I prefer the traditional white/gray for my hen feathers and the traditional brown for my cock feather. I use Bohning nocks, apply the fletching with Duco and use........ooops...forgot the name of the amber colored, stick, melt on glue to attach broadheads and points. Is it Fletch-tite? Oh well, most arrow builders will know what I mean. I stain my shafts with one of those water based stains from 3 Rivers Archery. I chose kind of a red mahogny. That stuff goes a looooong way and I'm sure I have a lifetime supply.

I'd kinda like to try some of the lodgepole pine or laminated birch shafting just for curiosity but I'm so pleased with POC that I probably won't. I enjoy the craft. It's kinda like tying your own flys, reloading your own ammo and/or casting your own bullets. There's a satisfaction that comes from using something you crafted to take game or catch fish.

Coyote...I know how feathers can go to hades when they get wet, they ain't worth spit!!!! There are quite a few products out there that will protect traditional fletching from moisture. I use Black Magic Tire Wet and it works just fine. Just apray it on and let dry good. Get 3 Rivers or some other trad suppliers catalog and they will show several products. I expect one works as good as the other.

Vic